Mt. Annapurna 4th Expedition

Trip Overview

Mt. Annapurna IV lies in the heart of the Annapurna mountain range and is situated between the summits of Annapurna II and Annapurna III by a spectacular ridge that connects all three mountains. This ridge is an amazing wall, which includes Annapurna I (809m.), Annapurna II (7,937m.), Annapurna III (7,555m.), Annapurna IV (7,525m.) and Annapurna South (7,220m.). The famous Machhapuchre (fishtail 6,993m.) is also located in the Annapurna range.

Above Camp I the route from Camp 2 to Camp 3 becomes steeper requiring fixed rope on some of the more difficult sections including a bergschrund that has to be crossed. Camp 3 is at an elevation of 20,500 ft and sits at the junction of the North Ridge and Summit Ridge. It sits on the "Dome" of Annapurna IV and affords us an incredible view of the Summit Ridge. At the crest 6,483m.

We will place our Camp III. Here the route turns sharp east and follows the Annapurna crest to the summit of Annapurna IV. The summit day above Camp III is long but not too technically difficult. However, there are some steep knife-edged ridges and cornices to negotiate so don't think this will be easy. Above Camp I the slopes lay back. Glacier travel skills will come into play as we wind our way to the top of the buttress, establishing around 6,000m (19, 800'). Camp II we will have spectacular views of the North Face of Annapurna II. From Camp II we continue upward till we reach the east-west crest of the Annapurna Himal. At this point the team will decide whether to place one more camp along the summit ridge or make summit attempts from Camp 3. The climb along the Summit Ridge affords us beautiful views of the Annapurna Sanctuary. It is a spectacular place to be. The climbing on this section will be very demanding as we will be climbing some steep sections on the Summit Ridge proper as well as traversing some steep slopes below the summit. We may also encounter some rock on the summit pyramid.